Permanent Eyeliner Procedure
In this video and blog post, we will demonstrate and share with you our process of applying permanent eyeliner to a client and also covering up or camouflaging old work done by another artist.
Notes: Our lovely client had permanent eyeliner done many years ago by another artist. Based on what we can see, it appears they used a pigment with carbon in it as it had faded to a blueish color over time. The pigment had also migrated a bit upward and there were a few noticable blotches above the line. You can see in the video small circles above the eyeliner where the original artist had probably lost control and made a mistake.
Our goal during this procedure was to use our Midnight Eyeliner Pigment to cover the old blueish work. We used Midnight because it contains red colors which makes it very warm. We used the warm color to counteract the cool, faded color.
We will often add a few drops of Mixing Black Pigment to even further deepen the color of the Midnight pigment. This pigment is only used to darken other pigments and cannot be used alone.
After going over the old work, we had to camouflague or coverup the blotches above the line. We used Beige Blonde Eyebrow Pigment to work over the mistakes. Beige Blonde is our closest color to skin tone which will blend nicely over the existing work. Because this is old eyeliner we're fixing, it's much darker than flesh tone. As a result, we will have to see our client for a few procedures before the old blotches are completely covered up.
Microcaine Pre-Eyeliner Topical Anesthetic
Use this first to numb the eyelids and lash beds before the procedure. It takes about 12-15 minutes to work and will take almost all the edge off the first pass. No need to grit your teeth when you have proper numbing cream for the job.
Minx Mogul Tattoo Candy Gel
Use this during the procedure after you completed your first pass. It's a gel so it has to absorb into the open skin. It works very quickly and both you and your client will notice. Watch how often our lovely client is talking through the procedure. She is so comfortable that the procedure doesn't bother her in the slightest.
Midnight Eyeliner Pigment
Midnight is the eyeliner pigment we used for this procedure. It has warm color properties which we needed to cover up the cool, blue fading liner she already had.
Beige Blonde Eyebrow Pigment
Beige Blonde is our closest skin-tone color which is used for the eyebrows and also often used for scar camouflage and corrective work.
3 Point Stretch
To have a successful permanent eyeliner procedure, you need to effectively manipulate the skin on and around the eyelids. To do this, we use our 3 point stretch and hold which we teach to all our students.
1. With the pad of your middle finger stretch and hold the outside corner of the eye. This will make the skin taut which is what you need for a smooth glide of the machine.
2. Place your thumb on the eyelid as close as possible to the lash bed. You can then roll and lift the lash bed upward to reveal where you will be implanting pigment.
3. On the hand that is holding the machine, you will use your pinky finger as a pivot point. Put downward pressure under the eye with your pinky finger to ensure the skin is taut.
This 3 Point Stretch and hold is important because it allows you to have control over the client's eyes. You need to make the skin taut with this stretch. If the skin is not stretched out, your needle will not glide smoothly over the working area.
Implating The Pigment
To implant the permanent makeup pigment, we use a smooth, back and forth rocking motion with our device. You don't want to go too fast or too slow otherwise you will have an uneven placement of pigment and you could damage the skin.
To end each pass, we like to count down from 5...4...3...2...1. This helps the client know that she can expect a short window of relief very soon.
Most people are nervous about getting permanent eyeliner. Talking to them during the procedure and letting them know when each pass is about to end is calming and helps them endure till the end.
Cleaning After Each Pass
There are a few things we do after each pass.
1. Use a cotton ball soaked in cool, distilled water to gently wipe the eye and remove the excess pigment.
2. Hold a clean tissue over the eye with a slight amount of pressure. Your client's eyelid will have a slight throbbing, tickling sensation from having been penetrated with a needle. The small pressure helps to relieve the sensation.
3. With a fresh cotton swab, apply the Tattoo Candy Gel over the eyelid. This will absorb quickly into the open skin and will keep your client totally numb. After applying the Gel once the first pass is finished, your client will say the procedure is almost entirely painless.
(Occasionally and when needed) You will want to use an isotonic eyewash to flush out the eyes after you finish a pass. Sometimes topical might get in the eye and can be irritating. Wash it out when your client feels irritation. Even if our client has no irritation, we still use the eye wash after every few passes to ensure her eyes are clean and safe.
Coverup and Camouflage
As we mentioned earlier, we used Beige Blonde Eyebrow Pigment to coverup and camouflage the blotches above the eyeliner.
The 3 Point Stretch and the motions of the device are the same as before. Gently rocking back and forth to evenly implant the pigment. You can do 3-4 passes over the same area during the procedure.
Because we are using a flesh tone color to cover the dark, carbon pigment that migrated, we will need to perform this procedure at least one more time before the old work is completely covered.
Here are a few key points to remember about permanent eyeliner procedure and covering up old permanent eyeliner.
- Use the right numbing agents! We use Microcaine for pre-procedure to take the edge off, and then our Tattoo Candy Gel during procedure to keep our clients pain-free.
- Master the 3 Point Stretch and Hold. Manipulating the skin properly is crucial to success. The skin needs to be stretched and taut so it can take the pigment evenly.
- Always stay clean! Use disposable cleaning supplies only. Cotton balls, cotton swabs, and tissues cannot be reused.
- Flush the eyes on occassion and when needed. Your client's comfort is important. If their eyes are irritated, flush them with isotonic eyewash. And even if their eyes aren't irritated, flush them anyway after every few passes to keep them clean.
- Stay calm and confident. Of all the PMU procedures, permanent eyeliner can seem like the scariest because of how close you are working to their eyeballs. Once you master the 3 Point Stretch, you'll find that eyeliner is one of the easiest permanent makeup procedures!